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Pleating Fabric!!

The last 2 weeks have been a very very intense period of settling into my new home. This is home for the next 3 months! I’m just about done settling the modules I’ll be taking here in Bezalel, and I’m excited. There are too many interesting modules, and I’m probably taking too many, but I really just want to learn everything. Too bad I’m not superwoman.

There was a book sale in school this week, and I came across this book that had a page about pleating fabric in Logon l’indéplissable, the atelier that pleated the designs of the first collection Raf Simmons did with Dior.

Ever since watching Dior and I (which is on Netflix btw), I’ve always wanted to try it. But there were details I couldn’t find anywhere on the web. And there it was, in that one page, in that one particular book. I didn’t buy the book in the end - I didn’t budget for books here (and neither did my flight baggage allowance) - but here’s a quick note about what I read.


2 sheets of kraft paperboard sandwich a piece of fabric (the fabric you want to pleat). These ‘sandwiches’ are either rolled around a metal cylinder, or pressed, depending on the design. Then, a protective layer of kraft paper is wrapped around it, and placed in a steamer.

Here’s the juicy bit - temperatures and times.

For tulle and chiffon -
85 degrees C; 20 minutes

For woollens -
95 degrees C; 50 minutes

For polyester -
105 degrees C; 50 minutes

When done and taken out of the steamer, the outer protective kraft paperboard is carefully removed. The rest is left to dry for about 24 hours, before being opened and inspected.

Here’s a video of the process over at Logon l’indéplissable, so you have a better idea of what’s going on.

Now, to just figure out how to fold the paper!

Glue and Colour in Silicone

When we shared our top 5 tips to work with silicone, we actually had 7 instead of 5 points. But it was too much to talk about in a post, so today, we’re going to share the 2 things kids care about most when making things - glue and colour.

Colour

There are probably other ways to colour silicone, but this was how Emma and I did ours. We mix paint to silicone in a 1:3 ratio. They will get pastel-ly but they all get coloured, while still keeping its silicone properties. The more paint you add, the stickier and less bouncy it gets. And it will get to a point where it’s too tacky and gunky to be removed from the baking paper.

We used our fingers to mix when making the samples, but I tried using a palette knife after that, and it worked out so much better. It was less messy, and there is a lot less wasted material because the palette knife will scrape up everything.

palette knife gif silicone collaboration with emma morris

Glue

Silicone sticks to silicone, but not so much with any other plastics or metal. It’s not like they’ll slide off, but it generally won’t hold together as well. But because silicone sticks to silicone, you could sandwich materials that don’t stick in between layers of silicone stuck together by even more silicone!

This is how these earrings were made.

material collaboration with emma morris silicone glue earring process
Emma's Pinterest Board
Abigail's Pinterest Board
a material collaboration with emma morris silicone
view final collection
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A few words from Emma:

My name is Emma Morris and I am a jewellery design student based in Glasgow. My love for making things started me along my path to becoming a jewellery designer. In my spare time, I like to bring my ideas to life to share with people. I inject colour and fun into my work, and am constantly coming up with new designs!

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