Pleating Fabric!!

The last 2 weeks have been a very very intense period of settling into my new home. This is home for the next 3 months! I’m just about done settling the modules I’ll be taking here in Bezalel, and I’m excited. There are too many interesting modules, and I’m probably taking too many, but I really just want to learn everything. Too bad I’m not superwoman.

There was a book sale in school this week, and I came across this book that had a page about pleating fabric in Logon l’indéplissable, the atelier that pleated the designs of the first collection Raf Simmons did with Dior.

Ever since watching Dior and I (which is on Netflix btw), I’ve always wanted to try it. But there were details I couldn’t find anywhere on the web. And there it was, in that one page, in that one particular book. I didn’t buy the book in the end - I didn’t budget for books here (and neither did my flight baggage allowance) - but here’s a quick note about what I read.

2 sheets of kraft paperboard sandwich a piece of fabric (the fabric you want to pleat). These ‘sandwiches’ are either rolled around a metal cylinder, or pressed, depending on the design. Then, a protective layer of kraft paper is wrapped around it, and placed in a steamer.

Here’s the juicy bit - temperatures and times.

For tulle and chiffon -
85 degrees C; 20 minutes

For woollens -
95 degrees C; 50 minutes

For polyester -
105 degrees C; 50 minutes

When done and taken out of the steamer, the outer protective kraft paperboard is carefully removed. The rest is left to dry for about 24 hours, before being opened and inspected.

Here’s a video of the process over at Logon l’indéplissable, so you have a better idea of what’s going on.

Now, to just figure out how to fold the paper!